We pack up in the morning, take a taxi to Shin Osaka and validate our one-week train passes, then board a Shinkansen bound for Shin Yokohama. Two hours and 45 minutes later we are there. Julian sleeps half the way. From Shin Yokohama a local train takes us to Sakuragicho in central Yokohama, from where we can walk to the Pan Pacific Hotel, our home for the next three nights.

In the evening we go down to the new amusement park complex next to the hotel. Julian rides a coin-operated Thomas the Tank Engine ride, then we go to the shopping mall next door and look for some light food. Julian spots a McDonald's and we safisfy him with some French fries and ice cream. He's a bit homesick, wants (alternatively) to go back to Yoko's house or home to his "new house".

The room at the Pan Pacific is excellent; I've spent a bit extra to get us on a higher floor with nicer rooms. Our view is to the east across Yokohama Bay, and we see the glow of sunset on the large bridge. Directly outside our window is an enormous ferris wheel (nearly as tall as the hotel, perhaps 35 stories in total) that displays the time. Around the Ferris wheel are arranged two large roller coasters, one of which takes a steep plunge into a cave-like opening in the middle of a pool, giving riders the illusion of splashing directly into the water. The rides and cityscape, and the harbor and bridge, make for an interesting night scene out the panoramic windows of the room.

Thursday, December 16

In the morning we take the train one stop to the Motomachi area, then walk up the hill to the area around the International School. This area boasts some of the most expensive real estate in Yokohama. There are commanding views, quiet streets, many Porches and Mercedes.

Satomi meets our friend Tomoko (who has also ridden in by train) for a two-hour window-shopping stroll down Motomachi street. I take Julian to the waterfront where we feed the pigeons. A large black raven lands next to Julian on a bench. I aim my camera, but an older woman yells "abunai!". I see that the bird is trying to peck at Julian's face with its huge sharp beak and I shoe it away, feeling suddenly foolish.

We walk through Chinatown; Julian seems to enjoy the sights and the crowds of people from his perch on my shoulders. We meet Satomi and Tomoko at a Starbucks on Motomachi, then go back into Chinatown for more walking. Julian falls asleep on my shoulders, so we stop for a while at a noodle shop and let him nap, watching people walk past outside. We shake our heads in disbelief at the fashions of the young women. Huge platform boots, crotch-high skirts, brown-tinted hair with dark fake-tan makup and heavy mascara, shocking pink striped shirts under thick leather and fur jackets.

Prices are still a bit high, with a few notable exceptions: for example, Chinese silk rugs seem to be quite affordable.

In the evening we pack up a box of stuff and send it ahead to Kagoshima to help lighten our load before traveling tomorrow. We take Julian down to the amusement park next door, where he rides a small electric car around a corral. We have dinner at an udon and soba restaurant in the basement of the Landmark shopping complex.